Wednesday, March 5, 2008

Rock N' Roll in Exile

It's March now and another Grammy award season has come and gone. Despite all the cocktail parties, one-hit wonders and botched riffs, it is a time of year that reminds me of what great rock music really is. My ritual is pretty simple. I sit down in front of the T.V. and immediately turn off the Grammy telecast. I then pop a copy of the Rolling Stones' Exile on Main Street into my stereo and immerse myself into sixty minutes of all things wild, disobedient, bluesy, incoherent, angst-riddled and sleazy.

For me, this rough mix of sound is crucial. Rock n' roll should never be pretty. Rock n' roll is dirty, raucous, vulgar, teeth-gnashing music with a nod to the blues and gospel. On Exile, the Stones laid down a scattered mix of murky riffs and lyrics. Guitars, horns, drums and lyrics occasional pop out of the murk for a riff or two before submerging back into the fray, with Mick Jagger letting loose an occasional muddled howl. Exile is an enduring testament that the power of rock is in the riff and the raucousness, not the catchy hook or pretty lyric.

The songs cover the full spectrum of the Stones' abilities. There's pure Stones' rock ('Rocks Off', 'Tumbling Dice'), country ('Torn and Frayed', 'Sweet Virginia'), gospel (the magnificent 'I Just Want to See His Face', 'Let It Loose') and blues ('Turd on the Run'). The two bluesy covers (Slim Harpo's 'Hip Shake' and Robert Johnson's 'Stop Breakin' Down') show that the Stones were well aware of their genre's pedigree.

This rough sound was born of rough sessions. The Stones had skipped out of England to avoid taxes (thus the "Exile") and settled in the south of France. Recorded initially in Keith Richards' Villa Nellcote home on the French Riviera, the sessions were late starting and drug-drenched. Richards, producer Jimmy Miller, guitarist Mick Taylor, saxman Bobby Keys, and guests Gram Parsons and John Lennon were doing a lot of drugs. Jagger missed half the sessions to be with his pregnant wife Bianca in Paris and Bill Wyman sat out a lot of sessions due to his general dislike for the vibe - he played on as few as nine tracks or as many as fourteen, depending on the source. The basement studio was painfully crude, and it was so hot and humid that guitar strings would occasionally expand and go out of tune. Basically, it was a shitshow.

"The basement was like a labyrinth of concrete and brick cubicles - not really separate rooms, more like stables, stalls," said Richards. "Charlie's round the corner in the second cubicle on the left, Bill's over there in that one, someone else is under the staircase. I could see Charlie's left hand flicking away. I would never rely on headphones; as long as I could see that I knew that we were in time."

According to Richards, Nellcote had served as Gestapo headquarters during WWII, complete with swastika covered floor vents. "I found a box down there with a big swastika on it, full of injection phials," said photographer Dominique Tarle. "They all contained morphine. It was very old, of course, and our first reaction was, 'If Keith had found this box...' So one night we carried it to the end of the garden, and threw it into the sea."

While most tracks were initiated in France, a couple were leftovers from the Let It Bleed sessions ('Sweet Virginia') and others were recorded in full at Sunset Sound Recorders in Los Angeles afterwards ('Loving Cup', 'Torn and Frayed'). While Richards was in charge in France, Jagger took over in L.A. It was there that the rest of the basic tracks were enhanced with piano, background vocals and gospel influences courtesy of Billy Preston and Dr. John.

Exile has aged well not only because it is a sensational rock album, but because it reminds us of what we have lost. And I'm not just talking about the Stones themselves - little more than plugged-in skeletons who make music that can actually be mistaken for a KD Lang tune. What we have lost is the rock n' roll. Just take a look at our contemporary rock scene. It consists mostly of old men who used to rock (Bruce Springsteen, U2, Paul McCartney) or young men who never have (can someone explain the Foo Fighters or Green Day to me?). I'm sorry, but that ain't rock n' roll. Yuppie rock maybe, but certainly not true rock n' roll. This is the era of kid gloves; of palatable art and entertainment that's easy to digest and doesn't ask for any effort from the audience. The good stuff is still there, but you have to dig.

It seems almost impossible to imagine in today's world of Grammy crap-o-la, but there was a time when the most popular artists were also the best. Exile on Main Street, one of the great achievements in rock, reminds us of those days.

Monday, March 3, 2008

Taking a Shine to Lagrein

Remember Brad Pitt in that movie "A River Runs Through It"? Strong, brash, handsome, quick with a joke. His parents loved him to death. He wore a beautiful woman as comfortably as dungarees, could dance like Bojangles and fly fish like Hemingway. Yet despite all his outsized and glorious attributes, he refused to abandon his small Montana valley for the glory of bigger cities and brighter lights.

God I hated that asshole.

Imagine, however, that you could infuse red berries with that same combination of bold attributes and undersized profile and squeeze the living juice out of them! Distill their power and smoothness and bottle it! Then imagine that you could stash it away in your cellar for only you and your local friends to enjoy. I imagine the result would be far more enjoyable (for me), because I imagine it would be something close to Italy's lagrein.

Lagrein [la-GRINE] originated (and remained) in the Alto Adige region along the Italian/Austrian border. Called Südtirol by the German speaking residents, the area fell victim to a tug of war between Austria and Italy during the two world wars, and the region is still decidedly Austrian in feel. German, not Italian, is the common tongue and Lagrein is a very German word.

Why do I pine for lagrein?

1. Lagrein is a rustic and deliciously rich Italian red wine. Long ago lagrein staked out the frigid foothills of the Italian Dolomite mountain range as its home, but it is far more inviting than the climate that produces it. A balanced and complex drink, lagrein is big, rich, and redolent of dark berries on the nose while often adding a smooth, almost chocolaty mouthfeel and long, slightly bitter finish. It's a saga from start to finish. It has rewarded locals with its loyalty though it has occasionally tip-toed out to enrich the winter months of a few far-off wine lovers.

2. Lagrein is truly a small town kid. It is currently planted on roughly 750 acres in and around Bolzano, the local capital (to put that into perspective in Chicago, that's about 1/3 the size of Chicago's Lincoln Park neighborhood). With a few scattered exceptions, that's it. The locals would love to grow more of it, but the problem isn't the sturdiness of the grape. It's the land. In the rugged Alto Adige, if vineyard land isn't hard to find, it's expensive. Martin Foradori Hofstätter, winemaker for Steinraffler vineyards in Tramin and a great lagrein vintner, told the New York Sun that he paid 350,000 euros for 2 1/2 acres of vineyard in 2005. Those numbers look far larger when you consider lagrein's small market and lack of international press.

3. The potential of lagrein is far larger that its acreage. Look no further than the wine's trademark dark fruit and chocolate flavor (it has been called a cross between Pinot Noir and Syrah). Lagrein is actually a harshly tannic and rustic-style grape, and it takes quite a bit of work from the winemaker to tame them. In fact, for years most of lagrein yields were used for rose wines (called lagrein rosato, it is considered Italy's finest pink wine). It has been only recently that lower maceration times and/or oak barrel aging have brought the tannins down to the complimentary level.

4. It's relatively cheap. Quality red lagrein (sometimes called lagrein scuro or lagrein dunkel, though I personally have not encountered such a label yet in Chicago) can be had for $18-$25.

5. They last. Most wines get nasty even a day after being opened. But Lagrein is a classically rustic, "rough around the edges" wine that can absorb a little oxygen beat-down. Every version I tried actually tasted better the day after it was opened. And even the youngest versions benefit greatly from some decanting. You can open the wine on Friday and still enjoy delicious lagrein from that same bottle on Sunday - no problem.

Here's what's available here in Chicago:

La Vis 'Dipinti' Lagrein 2006
Retail: $13 at Fine Wine Brokers (4621 N Lincoln Ave)
Wonderful expression of the grape for a great price. Dark fruit, slightly vegetal nose with intense blackberry and leather once its in the mouth with a little acidity. This one is not shy with the oak and tannin.

Mayr-Nusser Lagrein "Riserva" Alto Adige 2003
$22 at Sam's Wine & Spirits
Superb. A wonderful 'woodsy' nose and full-bodied with blackberry and tobacco. Aged for three years but without oak, so it's a nice 'naked' version of the grape (decant this one!). I would have to think that this wine would age wonderfully.

Alois Lageder Lagrein 2004
$17 at Binny's
*Tasting notes coming soon!

Donati "Vino del Maso" IGT, Dolomiti 2006
$17 at Sam's Wine & Spirits
*Tasting notes coming soon!